Breakout to South Korea!
After a nearly 2 year hiatus with no prospect of leaving Singapore and its limited bike-packing potential, I planned a 6 day solo trip to South Korea to break out of Singapore and get some quality riding in!
While South Korea may not be the first thing that comes to mind for cycling, I have to say - it really should be up there. World class cycling infrastructure, friendly people, good access to clean food, water and accommodation and some amazing cycling terrain.
The loosely formed plan was to ride from Seoul into the Seoraksan National Park and join up to the 'Korea Epic' Brevet route that is planned for May - however like most good trips, that plan changed given the conditions and local demands - check out a detailed route map and plan below!
Day 1: Seoul to Jaraseom Island
After landing, unpacked the bike and joined up to the start of the Cross Country Cycleway - a dedicated ~600km cycle path the length of South Korea. Stopped for a few supplies in Seoul and then onwards to Jarasam Island to hammock for the night - a big day in the hills awaited!
Day 2: Jaraseom Island to Seoraksan National Park
After the heat and hustle of Singapore, and then the big city of Seoul, waking to 0 degrees, frost and birdsong was a real treat. A quick aero-press and some savory pancakes saved from dinner and I was off. The plan today was to get into the Seoraksan National Park via. some back country roads and countryside. What quickly became apparent - Korea is STEEP. A slow mornings work and a limited window of time had me re-thinking the plan, which was doubly confirmed when a park ranger informed me they were closing the forestry roads due to fire risk. A quick check confirmed I could get onto the East Coast bike path from where I planned to stay - another length of the country, dedicated, marked and supported cycleway. With the plan revised, I climbed into the hills for some late night climbing, my only company multiple deer, hogs, bugs and birds. I had not seen a car for 3 hours, and got a real shock when one did come around a high mountain bend! Overall a punchy day, and worth every effort.
Day 3: Seoraksan National Park to Samcheok
Having confirmed the revised route due the forestry closures, I bailed out to the coastal town of Yangyang - from here it would be a beautiful run down the quiet East Coast of Korea, through small fishing villages and past relics of the various conflicts this area has seen over the years.
Day 4: Samcheok to Pohang 'The road of crab and clean beaches'
Heading out to the coast again, today would be one of those days you seek on the bike where every km gets better, the time flies past and you wonder how you could do anything else for a living. Beautiful rolling coastal roads, not a car, truck or bus in sight. My only company the many seagulls, regular stops for dried stingray or squid jerky and the friendly local faces waving me down for a chat. I was the first non-local tourist they had seen for at least 2 years! Pohang marked the end of the 'official' East Coast cycle trail.
Day 5: Pohang - Yansang transfer by Bus, then on to Busan
Having had a chat to a few local cyclists the next section Busan was mostly main highway with heavy industrial traffic - another pivot in the plan meant hopping a ride inland to then finish the North - South Bike path, the same trail we started with in Seoul. This meant an extra half day free to have a look around Busan, meet up with some of the local shops and do some sightseeing!
Finishing up in Busan, next step was to pack up and fly back to Seoul to head home. A solid week of riding, lots of lessons learned and a big tick for Korea cycling! We will definitely be back, I only just scratched the surface of what is available in this area and look forward to a return trip!